The East Holandes Cays

Time to visit some new islands in the San Blas so, we sailed off late in the day and headed toward the East Holandes Cays. The sail was only a few hours. Such an odd feeling to be out in the middle of the sea with no land in sight…it’s humbling at best and daunting, impressive, commanding, magnificent, intimidating and a bit scary. There is no question who the boss is!

The Holandes are very different compared to the Lemons. They have a lot more vegetation on them and there isn’t much of a nice beach area surrounding the islands. The main island that we visited is called “Pot Luck Island”. It’s called that because when the cruisers have a CD, DVD or what ever else, swap party they also have a pot luck dinner. Everyone that attends brings some kind of food or drink to share. It’s a way to socialize and catch up with stories and things going on in other areas. The best way to learn about an upcoming party is via the “Panama Connection” @ 8:30 AM on the VHF radio.

No one lives on Pot Luck Island and there is an abandoned hut that a Kuna family once lived in. Reggie, a cruiser from NY has been the self-appointed care taker for years. He will rake, gather coconuts for the Kuna and keep the island clean. He will also do the burning and recycling for the cruisers and Kuna. On our first day there a Kuna Official in a ulu came by to collect $5 anchorage fee. He boarded Layla, chatted for a while in Spanish and we gave him some magazines and cookies.

Anchored in the reef protected Holandes is a sailboat that actually sunk and was brought back up – they ran a ground and tore a huge hole in the hull. The new owner is trying to restore the vessel. It was clearly once a beautiful boat and there’s a lot of work to be done.

San Blas Island - Wichubhuala and Nalunega

One day we sailed to Wichubhuala and brought 5 Kuna women and 2 babies with us. One of the babies was sick and needed medical attention. The sail was a little over an hour long. The Kuna women only speak Kuna so they chatted to one another while the rest of us just listened and I actually held the sick baby for a while. One child was 10 months old and the other 2 months.

Wichubhuala and Nalunega are much more populated than the other islands. The village is completely full of huts and Kuna families selling their goods. There's also a cantina and other types of accommodations for visitors. Still not considered "luxury" but very charming and the Kuna are extremely friendly.

We stayed for several hours while the women went to the local Red Cross we walked around and bought more Molas and other fun things to bring back to the states.

When we were ready to head out a young Kuna man thank me for helping take care of his people - he spoke fairly good English. He talked about unity and compassion. That with the friendship of many tourists he felt there was hope for the children as far as education and poverty. He was very sweet and it was clear that he was being genuine.

The sail back the Kuna women slept...it had been a long day for everyone.

San Blas Island - Banedup

The Lopez family, they are Kuna, live on Banedup and they are a good source of supplies for visitors. Lydia sells her Molas and her son, MacGyver (yes he was named after the TV show) makes Kuna bread and sells it to the cruisers. MacGyver is 16 years old and wants to learn English. He does speak a few words and phrases that he has been taught by visiting Americans. When I met him he said, "Good evening..." and shook my hand. I think that may be about the extent of his English. Very handsome young man and on my next visit I'll bring him some books to help with his interest in learning another language.

They have several huts and a dock on the island, along with a monkey, chickens and a dog. They also have several ulu's and one with an outboard engine. Everyone is very friendly - the cruisers help the Kuna as much as they can, bringing them rice, flour, sugar - and if they need any "luxury" items. One cruiser gave a family a poodle puppy - Osita. They have cell phones, radios and a few have TV's. The Kuna are also very helpful and generous.